There's No One Right Prismacolor Set

When I first started ordering art supplies for our university's illustration program back in 2017, I thought picking a pencil brand was straightforward. I'd just grab the biggest Prismacolor Premier set and call it a day. Then I watched $1,200 worth of pencils sit unused because they weren't right for the course. That's when I realized: what works for a professional illustrator isn't what works for a foundation drawing class, and neither is what works for a high school elective.

So I started documenting every ordering mistake I made. Some cost us money—like the time I ordered Art Stix instead of standard pencils for a detail-focused workshop. Some cost us time—like the week I spent troubleshooting why my HP printer said offline while trying to print color swatches for a new vendor. (Turns out it was a driver update that broke the network connection. Took me three IT tickets to figure that out.)

The point is: there's no universal "best" Prismacolor product. It depends on who's using it, what they're making, and how they work. Below I've broken this into three common scenarios. Figure out which one matches your situation, and you'll avoid the mistakes I made.

Scenario A: You're a Professional Illustrator or Designer

What Matters Most

If you're doing client work or personal commissions, color accuracy, blendability, and lightfastness are non-negotiable. You need the full control of a soft-core pencil that can layer and burnish. This is where Prismacolor's Premier line shines—specifically the 150-color set.

Pencil Numbering System — Learn It or Lose It

Prismacolor uses a 3- or 4-digit code (e.g., PC924 Crimson Red). The "PC" stands for "Prismacolor," and the numbers correspond to a specific color. When ordering refills or replacements, never rely on the name alone—use the number. I once ordered "Cherry Red" duplicates because two different lines had the same name but different codes. The numbering system is consistent across all Prismacolor products, including the Art Stix, so if you're buying Prismacolor Art Stix alternative sets (which are rectangular sticks for broad strokes), the same codes apply. Just note that Art Stix won't give you fine-point precision—they're better for filling large areas or underpainting.

My Recommendation

Stick with the Premier 150 set. If you need portability, get the metal tin version—it's worth the extra $15. I've tried cheaper alternatives (the budget student-grade sets) and regretted it every time. The pigment load is just thinner.

Scenario B: You're Buying for a School or Workshop (ToB)

What Matters Most

Budget is usually a constraint. You're balancing quality against unit cost, and you need products that can survive careless handling. Also, you probably don't need 150 colors—a 36- or 48-set per student is plenty.

The Art Stix Alternative — Proceed With Caution

I've seen administrators try to cut costs by ordering Art Stix instead of standard pencils. Yes, they're cheaper per piece. But they're shaped like crayons—students can't sharpen them to a fine point, which makes linework frustrating. For a drawing class focused on cross-hatching, Art Stix are a disaster. For a painting or mixed-media class where students use the sticks for blocking in color, they work fine.

Here's where the Prismacolor pencil numbering system becomes critical when ordering. If you're replacing individual colors in a classroom set, you can order single pencils using the PC code. I learned this after throwing away a whole box of mixed duplicates because I didn't check numbers. Now I maintain a spreadsheet with the class set list and reorder by number. Don't be me.

My Recommendation

For general classroom use, get the Premier 48 set. If the curriculum includes large-scale color work, supplement with a few Art Stix sets (like the 12-color set). And whatever you do, don't substitute Art Stix for standard pencils in a foundation drawing class. I made that mistake in September 2022—$890 wasted on materials that didn't match the syllabus, plus a three-day scramble to order replacements.

Scenario C: You're a Hobbyist or Student on a Budget

What Matters Most

You want quality without breaking the bank. You probably don't need the full 150 set—most hobby projects use 20–30 colors max. But you also don't want to buy a cheap set that frustrates you and kills your motivation.

The Numbers Game

Prismacolor's numbering system is your friend here. You can buy a small starter set (12 or 24 colors) and then add single pencils in the colors you use most. I've seen beginners waste money on huge sets that contain a dozen similar blues they never touch. Start small, then expand based on your actual use.

One time I spent an afternoon comparing per-unit costs using an Omni Calculator to decide between a 36-set and two 18-sets. The Omni Calculator told me the 36-set was 8% cheaper per pencil. But I also had the Chipotle calorie calculator open on my phone—I was hungry and distracted. Result? I ordered the 36-set without checking if it included the specific colors I needed. It didn't. I ended up buying three extra single pencils anyway. My advice: don't multi-task when ordering supplies.

My Recommendation

Start with the Premier 24 set (around $30–35). Then use the PC numbers to buy individual colors as you go. If you want to try Art Stix as a cheaper alternative for backgrounds, the 6-color set is fine. But don't expect Art Stix to replace your core pencils.

How to Know Which Scenario You're In

Ask yourself three questions:

  1. Who is the end user? A professional illustrator needs different tools than a classroom of 20 students.
  2. What is the primary use? Detailed linework? Broad color washes? Mixed media?
  3. What's your real budget constraint? If you're buying hundreds of sets, Art Stix might make sense for certain courses. If you're buying one set for yourself, don't compromise on quality.

If you're an individual artist, go with Scenario A. If you're buying for a program with limited funds but diverse needs, Scenario B. If you're learning or exploring, Scenario C.

I still have a note on my desk from 2019: "Check the PC number, not the name." That single habit has saved me hundreds of dollars in duplicate orders. And yes, I finally fixed the HP printer offline issue—it was a static IP conflict. But that's a story for another article.

Share this planning note LinkedIn Email Print

Jane Smith

I’m Jane Smith, a senior content writer with over 15 years of experience in the packaging and printing industry. I specialize in writing about the latest trends, technologies, and best practices in packaging design, sustainability, and printing techniques. My goal is to help businesses understand complex printing processes and design solutions that enhance both product packaging and brand visibility.

Previous What I Learned From Wasting $1,400 on Prismacolor Orders — and How You Can Avoid It Next A Procurement Manager’s 5‑Step Checklist for Buying Art Supplies & Printers (Prismacolor, Sublimation, EcoTank & 3D Printing)

Discuss a color supply plan

If this article relates to a classroom, reseller, or workshop program you are planning, send the context to Prismacolor and request product guidance.